The Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection, now immortalized on Vogue Runway, marked a pivotal moment in the storied history of the house. It was the debut collection of Anthony Vaccarello, succeeding Hedi Slimane, and his interpretation of the Yves Saint Laurent legacy proved both bold and respectful, a fascinating blend of reverence and reinvention. The show itself generated considerable buzz, setting the stage for a new era that simultaneously honored the past while forging a distinct, contemporary path. This article will delve deep into the collection, exploring its key elements, influences, and lasting impact on the fashion landscape.
A Legacy Reimagined: The Saint Laurent Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Show
The pressure on Vaccarello was immense. Slimane's tenure had been transformative, albeit controversial, leaving a significant mark on the brand’s identity. Vaccarello, known for his sharp tailoring and provocative silhouettes, faced the challenge of crafting a collection that resonated with the house's heritage while establishing his own unique vision. The result was a collection that felt both familiar and strikingly new, a testament to his understanding of Saint Laurent's DNA and his ability to reinterpret it for a modern audience.
The collection, immediately available for review on Vogue Runway, showcased Vaccarello's mastery of silhouette. The iconic Saint Laurent woman, a figure of effortless sophistication and rebellious glamour, was reimagined through a lens of sleek minimalism and powerful femininity. Gone were the ultra-skinny silhouettes of the Slimane era, replaced by a more fluid, body-conscious approach. The clothes clung to the body, highlighting the female form with a confident, almost brazen sexuality.
This wasn't a nostalgic recreation of past Saint Laurent collections; it was a conversation with the house's history. Vaccarello drew inspiration from Yves Saint Laurent's iconic designs, but he didn't simply replicate them. Instead, he extracted the essence of Saint Laurent's aesthetic – the sharp tailoring, the confident sexuality, the effortless chic – and reinterpreted it through a contemporary lens. He took the foundational elements and built upon them, creating something both familiar and utterly fresh.
Key elements of the collection included:
* The Power Suit: Vaccarello's take on the power suit was both sharp and sensual. Blazers were impeccably tailored, often featuring strong shoulders and a fitted waist, paired with high-waisted trousers or slim skirts. The fabrics were luxurious, ranging from crisp cottons to fluid silks, adding to the overall sense of sophisticated allure. The power suit, a staple of the Yves Saint Laurent legacy, was reimagined for a new generation, retaining its inherent strength while embracing a contemporary sensibility.
* The LBD (Little Black Dress): No Saint Laurent collection would be complete without a selection of little black dresses, and the SS 2017 offering did not disappoint. Vaccarello's LBDs were sleek and minimalist, often featuring simple, elegant silhouettes that emphasized the female form. The dresses were undeniably sexy, but their allure came from their confidence and sophistication rather than overt provocation. They were pieces designed to empower, to make the wearer feel both beautiful and powerful.
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